Friday, December 13, 2013

CA. or Bust?

We ran over to the San Diego area to retrieve the 1971 R75/5 yesterday. The ole fellow has been sitting along the wall for nearly 10 years in this form. It was surrounded by tools, paint cans and various garage goodies.

 I was a little surprised by the "stripped down" mode it was in as I thought it was more together than this.
46k original miles on the odometer.


 There were so many boxes of parts that it all wouldn't fit in the car so we had to perform a little "quick" assembly to get everything on board. The trunk / back seat were full.
The paint has a few "dings" but the fenders & tank are very presentable.


The bike came with panniers & rack, small rear luggage rack, a rear top case, two QSL Solo Seats, the correct OEM Zuena Cigar mufflers.
It included boxes of spare parts, wheels, hubs and a lot of additional stuff.

This will be a longer term assembly than I thought but won't take too much to get it on the road. Unfortunately a front axle wheel spacer is missing so the front wheel isn't oriented as it should be.....- edit - went digging through my "spares" box and lo and behold I found a /5 front axle wheel spacer.....yay!

I'll dig into it in January. First priority is to get the sidecar rig push rod tube seals installed, which I will work on over the next few days.

3 comments:

Richard M said...

Looks like a nice rig, and I like the color.

Fortunately pushrod seals are a quick fix if you just take out the wrist pins and leave the heads on...

BMW HACKER said...

I'm thinking....if I run the piston out to TDC....I can just pull the cylinder / head assembly out far enough to replace the seals.(?)
Don't know why that wouldn't work. I'd only remove the 4 rocker arm head bolts and leave the other two as-is.

Richard M said...

Yes on leaving two of the head bolts in and just loosen the other four. When the cylinders are pulled out with the pistons at top dead center, it is really difficult to get to the push rod seals. On my bike, the frame got in the way.

I pulled out the cylinders just far enough to get to the wrist pin snap rings and used internal snap ring pliers and to remove one of them holding the wrist pins inside of the pistons, pushed (tapped) the wrist pin out far enough to clear the rod. Do something to support the rod from dropping onto the crankcase opening, then remove the cylinder with the piston still installed and none of the rings showing. Then it is simple to remove the seals and also replace the O-rings at the base of the cylinders if there are any. On my '83 R100, there were O-rings on the base of the cylinder and I believe at the base of one of the headbolt studs. The previous owner made a mess with silicone trying to stop the leaks which had to be cleaned up.

Hope this helps.

Gila Mtns.

Gila Mtns.